:root{
  --bordeaux:#7a1f1f; --bordeaux-dark:#5c1414; --gold:#c79a3a;
  --ink:#241f1c; --muted:#6f655c; --line:#ece4d8;
  --bg:#fffdf9; --card:#faf6ef; --shadow:0 8px 30px rgba(60,30,20,.10);
}
*{box-sizing:border-box;margin:0;padding:0}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{font:16px/1.65 system-ui,-apple-system,Segoe UI,Roboto,sans-serif;color:var(--ink);background:var(--bg)}
a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}
img{max-width:100%;display:block}
.wrap{max-width:1120px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 22px}
h1,h2,h3{line-height:1.15;font-weight:800;letter-spacing:-.02em}

/* NAV */
.nav{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:50;background:rgba(255,253,249,.92);backdrop-filter:blur(8px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.nav .wrap{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:18px;height:64px}
.logo{font-weight:800;font-size:1.15rem;color:var(--bordeaux)}
.logo span{color:var(--gold)}
.nav nav{margin-left:auto;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:20px}
.nav nav a{font-size:.93rem;color:var(--muted)}
.nav nav a:hover{color:var(--ink)}
.langs{display:flex;gap:6px}
.langs b{font-size:.78rem;padding:3px 7px;border-radius:6px;color:var(--muted);cursor:pointer;font-weight:600}
.langs b.on{background:var(--bordeaux);color:#fff}
.btn{display:inline-block;background:var(--bordeaux);color:#fff;padding:11px 20px;border-radius:30px;font-weight:700;font-size:.92rem;border:none;cursor:pointer;transition:.15s}
.btn:hover{background:var(--bordeaux-dark)}
.btn.ghost{background:transparent;color:var(--bordeaux);border:2px solid var(--bordeaux)}
.btn.ghost:hover{background:var(--bordeaux);color:#fff}

/* HERO */
.hero{position:relative;color:#fff;padding:90px 0 80px;text-align:center;
  background:linear-gradient(135deg,#5c1414 0%,#7a1f1f 45%,#9c4b2a 100%)}
.hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;opacity:.13;
  background:radial-gradient(circle at 20% 30%,#fff 0,transparent 40%),radial-gradient(circle at 80% 70%,var(--gold) 0,transparent 35%)}
.hero .wrap{position:relative;z-index:1}
.hero h1{font-size:clamp(2.2rem,5vw,3.6rem);max-width:14ch;margin:0 auto .5em}
.hero p{font-size:1.2rem;opacity:.92;max-width:46ch;margin:0 auto 1.8em}
.hero .cta{display:flex;gap:14px;justify-content:center;flex-wrap:wrap}
.hero .btn.ghost{color:#fff;border-color:rgba(255,255,255,.6)}
.hero .btn.ghost:hover{background:#fff;color:var(--bordeaux)}
.chips{display:flex;gap:10px;justify-content:center;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:34px}
.chips a{background:rgba(255,255,255,.14);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.25);padding:7px 15px;border-radius:30px;font-size:.88rem;font-weight:600}
.chips a:hover{background:#fff;color:var(--bordeaux)}

/* SECTIONS */
section{padding:64px 0}
.eyebrow{color:var(--bordeaux);font-weight:800;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em;font-size:.8rem}
.sec-h{text-align:center;margin-bottom:38px}
.sec-h h2{font-size:clamp(1.6rem,3.5vw,2.3rem);margin:.3em 0}
.sec-h p{color:var(--muted);max-width:52ch;margin:0 auto}
.alt{background:var(--card)}

/* GRID CARDS */
.grid{display:grid;gap:18px;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(250px,1fr))}
.card{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow);transition:.18s;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.card:hover{transform:translateY(-4px)}
.card .top{height:120px;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;padding:14px;color:#fff;font-weight:800;font-size:1.1rem}
.z1 .top,.z1{--c1:#7a1f1f;--c2:#b5572f}
.card .body{padding:16px 18px}
.card .body p{color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem;margin-top:6px}
.tag{display:inline-block;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:700;padding:3px 9px;border-radius:20px;background:#f3ead9;color:var(--bordeaux)}
.tag.A{background:#e7f3e7;color:#2e7d32}.tag.B{background:#fff3df;color:#b9770e}.tag.C{background:#efe9f6;color:#6a3fa0}
.meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;align-items:center;margin:10px 0 4px;font-size:.82rem;color:var(--muted)}
.meta b{color:var(--ink)}

/* zone gradient tops */
.zg0{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#5c1414,#9c4b2a)}
.zg1{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#1f5e7a,#3aa0b5)}
.zg2{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#6a1f3a,#b5572f)}
.zg3{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#2f6b3a,#8aa83a)}
.zg4{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#3a4a7a,#7a8ad0)}
.zg5{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#7a5a1f,#c79a3a)}
.zg6{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#4a3f6b,#9a7fd0)}

/* STEPS */
.steps{display:grid;gap:22px;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(240px,1fr));counter-reset:s}
.step{text-align:center;padding:10px}
.step .n{counter-increment:s;width:48px;height:48px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--bordeaux);color:#fff;font-weight:800;display:grid;place-items:center;margin:0 auto 12px;font-size:1.2rem}
.step .n::before{content:counter(s)}

/* BUILDER */
.builder{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:20px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);padding:24px;display:grid;gap:16px;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(160px,1fr));align-items:end}
.field{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px}
.field label{font-size:.8rem;font-weight:700;color:var(--muted)}
.field select,.field input{padding:11px 12px;border:1.5px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;font:inherit;background:var(--bg)}
.builder .go{grid-column:1/-1}
#count{font-weight:700;color:var(--bordeaux)}

/* MAGAZINE HOME — masthead + filtri + feed */
.masthead{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#5c1414,#9c4b2a);color:#fff;padding:38px 0 30px;text-align:center}
.masthead h1{font-size:clamp(1.8rem,4vw,2.7rem)}
.masthead p{opacity:.9;margin-top:8px;max-width:52ch;margin-inline:auto}
.filters{position:sticky;top:64px;z-index:40;background:rgba(255,253,249,.96);backdrop-filter:blur(8px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:14px 0}
.frow{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:9px}
.frow:last-child{margin-bottom:0}
.frow .lbl{font-size:.72rem;font-weight:800;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.06em;color:var(--muted);min-width:96px}
.chip{border:1.5px solid var(--line);background:#fff;border-radius:30px;padding:6px 13px;font-size:.85rem;font-weight:600;cursor:pointer;transition:.12s;white-space:nowrap;color:var(--ink)}
.chip:hover{border-color:var(--bordeaux)}
.chip.on{background:var(--bordeaux);color:#fff;border-color:var(--bordeaux)}
.fsearch{flex:1;min-width:160px;padding:8px 13px;border:1.5px solid var(--line);border-radius:30px;font:inherit}
.fclear{font-size:.82rem;color:var(--bordeaux);cursor:pointer;font-weight:700;border:0;background:none}
.feedbar{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;margin:22px 0 14px}
.feedbar b{color:var(--bordeaux)}
.feed{display:grid;gap:18px;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(270px,1fr))}
.fcard{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;overflow:hidden;box-shadow:var(--shadow);transition:.16s;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.fcard:hover{transform:translateY(-4px)}
.fcard .top{height:120px;color:#fff;padding:14px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between}
.fcard .kicker{font-size:.72rem;font-weight:800;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em;opacity:.95}
.fcard .htitle{font-weight:800;font-size:1.05rem;line-height:1.2}
.fcard .body{padding:13px 15px;flex:1;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:6px}
.fcard .type{align-self:flex-start;font-size:.7rem;font-weight:800;padding:2px 9px;border-radius:20px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.04em}
.fcard .type.guida{background:#e7f0f7;color:#1f5e7a}
.fcard .type.tour{background:#f3ead9;color:var(--bordeaux)}
.fcard .place{color:var(--muted);font-size:.85rem}
.fcard .go{color:var(--bordeaux);font-weight:700;font-size:.9rem;margin-top:auto}
.feed-empty{text-align:center;color:var(--muted);padding:40px}

/* CATEGORIE (home) */
.catgrid{display:grid;gap:16px;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(330px,1fr))}
.catcard{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;box-shadow:var(--shadow);overflow:hidden}
.catcard summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:14px;padding:18px 20px;font-weight:800;font-size:1.08rem}
.catcard summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.catcard summary .e{font-size:1.7rem;line-height:1}
.catcard summary .arr{margin-left:auto;color:var(--muted);transition:.2s;font-weight:400}
.catcard[open] summary .arr{transform:rotate(180deg)}
.catcard summary small{display:block;color:var(--muted);font-weight:600;font-size:.8rem}
.subs{padding:4px 20px 18px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:2px}
.subs a{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;padding:11px 12px;border-radius:10px;color:var(--ink);font-size:.95rem;border:1px solid transparent}
.subs a:hover{background:var(--card);border-color:var(--line)}
.subs a .d{color:var(--bordeaux);font-weight:800;margin-left:auto}
.zstrip{display:flex;gap:10px;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center}
.zstrip a{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:30px;padding:8px 16px;font-weight:600;font-size:.9rem;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.zstrip a:hover{border-color:var(--bordeaux);color:var(--bordeaux)}

/* SUBCATEGORY PAGE */
.subhero{color:#fff;padding:60px 0}
.subhero .crumb{font-size:.85rem;opacity:.85;margin-bottom:6px}
.subhero h1{font-size:clamp(1.7rem,4vw,2.7rem);max-width:22ch}
.subhero p{opacity:.92;max-width:54ch;margin-top:12px;font-size:1.1rem}
.ctaband{background:var(--bordeaux);color:#fff;border-radius:18px;padding:26px 28px;text-align:center;margin:34px 0}
.ctaband h3{font-size:1.4rem;margin-bottom:6px}
.ctaband .btn{background:#fff;color:var(--bordeaux);margin-top:14px}
.ctaband .btn:hover{background:#f0d9a0}
.blogcard .top{height:80px}
.infogrid{display:grid;gap:14px;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(180px,1fr));margin:14px 0}
.infobox{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:14px 16px}
.infobox b{color:var(--bordeaux);display:block;font-size:.8rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em;margin-bottom:4px}

/* FORNITORI (dove mangiare/dormire) */
.supgrid{display:grid;gap:24px;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;margin:8px 0}
.supcol h4{font-size:1rem;margin-bottom:12px;color:var(--bordeaux)}
.sup{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;padding:13px 15px;margin-bottom:11px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.sup-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:8px}
.sup-top b{font-size:1rem}
.rev{background:#fff3df;color:#b9770e;font-weight:800;font-size:.78rem;padding:2px 8px;border-radius:20px;white-space:nowrap}
.sup-cat{color:var(--muted);font-size:.82rem;margin:3px 0 9px}
.sup-cta{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.sup-cta a{font-size:.84rem;font-weight:700;padding:7px 13px;border-radius:8px;text-decoration:none}
.cta-wa{background:#25d366;color:#fff!important}
.cta-wa:hover{background:#1da851}
.cta-tel{background:var(--card);color:var(--bordeaux)!important;border:1px solid var(--line)}
.cta-tel:hover{border-color:var(--bordeaux)}
.nocta{font-size:.8rem;color:var(--muted)}
.supnote{font-size:.82rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px;font-style:italic}
@media(max-width:680px){.supgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}

/* BLOG ARTICLE */
.article{max-width:760px}
.article h2{margin:30px 0 12px;font-size:1.4rem;color:var(--bordeaux)}
.article p{margin:0 0 16px}
.article hr{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:26px 0}
.bloglist .card .top{height:100px;font-size:.95rem}
.relband{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;padding:22px;margin:30px 0}
.relband h3{margin-bottom:14px}

/* TOUR PAGE */
.thero{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#5c1414,#9c4b2a);color:#fff;padding:70px 0}
.thero .eyebrow{color:#f0d9a0}
.thero h1{font-size:clamp(1.8rem,4vw,2.8rem);max-width:20ch;margin:.3em 0}
.thero .meta{color:rgba(255,255,255,.85)}.thero .meta b{color:#fff}
.layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 320px;gap:40px;padding:50px 0}
.day{border-left:3px solid var(--gold);padding:4px 0 18px 22px;position:relative;margin-bottom:6px}
.day::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:-9px;top:6px;width:15px;height:15px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--bordeaux);border:3px solid #fff}
.day h3{color:var(--bordeaux)}
.day .slot{margin:8px 0}
.day .slot b{color:var(--ink)}
.eat{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;padding:14px 16px;margin-top:12px}
.eat h4{font-size:.85rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.05em;color:var(--bordeaux);margin-bottom:8px}
.eat .item{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:10px;padding:7px 0;border-top:1px dashed var(--line);font-size:.92rem}
.eat .item:first-of-type{border:0}
.aside{align-self:start;position:sticky;top:84px;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;padding:20px}
.aside h4{margin-bottom:10px}
.aside ul{list-style:none;font-size:.92rem}
.aside li{padding:6px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:8px}
.note{background:#fff8ec;border:1px solid #f0dcb0;border-radius:12px;padding:12px 14px;font-size:.86rem;color:#8a6d2a;margin:14px 0}

/* FOOTER */
footer{background:var(--ink);color:#cbbfb4;padding:46px 0;font-size:.9rem}
footer .wrap{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:20px}
footer b{color:#fff}

@media(max-width:780px){.layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.aside{position:static}.nav nav a:not(.btn){display:none}}